“What is it about 20-somethings” in Korea?

Talking with my friend Peter, who was on a visit to Korea from his current home in Shanghai, we got into discussing our respective foreign homes. At a K-League baseball game with my friends and him, he told me it was a nice to hang out with a group of Americans. He said he really didn’t realize he missed hanging with Americans until doing so for nearly the entire weekend.

From what I’ve seen, and what Peter’s told me, Americans are in few numbers on the Shanghai expat circuit. Most people are from everywhere around the world and are in business, manufacturing, media, and in some cases, teaching. He said its hard find a large contingent Americans, as there’s just people from all over the place doing different things (and always a lot of Chinese people). Of the eight or so people that live in his flat, Peter says he is the only one who is an English teacher.

Sadly, Korea is not the case. ROKetship, a one-frame comic on the cultural anecdotes of life on the peninsula nailed the foreigner contingent perfectly a few months ago:

According to some data published in the country, there about 25,000 foreigners currently teaching English in Korea. While the government says there are one million foreigners living in Korea, the majority of them a Chinese or part of the ever-growing contingent foreigners married to Korean nationals.

While Americans make up the largest Western group with around 120,000 people, I’m curious if they count the 30,000 American military forces as part of it. There are also many Vietnamese, Indonesian or Pakistani citizens but are relegated to social strata even lower than my own.

I don’t seem to come across many Western business professionals in the country, but they do exist and likely have more than enough money to be seen in places other than where I hang out. But as far as seeing anyone my age in the business of other than teaching is fairly rare. Obviously, it’s difficult to draw direct comparisons to China as it has a billion people and is now the world’s second largest economy. So there will always be disparities.

Getting down to it, the relative size of Korea and culture of foreigners has put Korea firmly, in my opinion, as the place for “emerging adulthood.”

Last month, the New York Times Magazine ran a much-talked about 8,000 word article entitled, “What is it about 20-somethings.” I delved into what psychologists are now calling “emerging adulthood.” This is generally typified by the young college graduates who aren’t afraid to boomerang back home, bounce around jobs through much of their 20s and get married much later.

Peter and I in Shanghai

They compare data from 20-somethings a few decades ago who got married, had children and settled down all before the age of thirty. Now, psychologists are trying to figure out why young people aren’t meeting these so-called life benchmarks like that of their generational predecessors.

The article suggests that people (who have the means and education) to spend a year traveling, teaching abroad, or move back in with their parents are not offsetting their adulthood, like older people seem to think, but are part of a new wave of adolescence in general. Much of the reasoning should be left the article, which you should read.

While I don’t see myself meeting the “benchmarks” of my parents, or in some cases, even people ten years older than me, I don’t necessarily see it as a form of “emerging adolescence.”

This has to do with the Korea-China comparison for a few reasons. Here in Korea, I’m not really surrounded by “professionals” like I was at KPBS or meeting area journalists for brunch on Sunday a morning. The next level is really just getting paid a little more. There are long-term teachers out here, but I’ve never really thought of this kind of teaching as a career.

So, in some cases people are using their time here to arrest their development. In other cases, people are using it as a stepping stone to other things. The latter may apply to “emerging adulthood,” but if it’s a psychological development stage, should it apply to everyone?

Everybody I know in Korea has the same job. I’m sort of in a bubble. That’s not to say that being exclusively around media professionals isn’t a bubble in itself. But rather, it’s difficult to even avoid coming across a non-military or non-English teaching foreigner in this country. I know a few people, (probably less than five) under 30 who are in Korea doing some other kind of work (but also teach part-time).

The one question that everyone asks is: why is this happening now?
I partially blame old people. No, not geriatrics, but the generations of greedy money-grubbers who drove the economy into the ground a few years ago. As a result of the economic crash, delayed retirements and perennial layoffs, there aren’t a whole lot of jobs for young graduates these days. Especially college graduates. While the old timers always say that us young’uns need to pull ourselves up by our bootstraps like they did, they seemed to forget some things.

Education debt has skyrocketed, along with the cost of education, itself compared to thirty years ago. So, we aren’t being lazy boomeranging back home, we are trying to figure our lives out with the hand we were dealt.

Bagan, Myanmar. I've spent 13 of the previous 20 months outside of the United States.

Foreign Policy magazine asked their own questions when it came to this New York Times Magazine article: “How do Millenials think about international relations?” I guess by the fact that I saw this article on a site I read on a daily basis, I think there’s a huge disconnect between older people and the understanding of young people.

The FP article isn’t nearly as interesting as the now 106 comments. Most are anecdotes from 20-somethings like me about American foreign policy in general. I think that since most of us came of age during the post-9/11 years, a lot of us are a bit demystified at the supposed hegemonic power of the United States. This generation’s willingness to go abroad illustrates our greater understanding of world politics and the role of the United States around the world compared to other generations.

Because there are not a lot of jobs back home for people like me at the moment, I think I’ll stay abroad longer. People tell me graduate school will only make me overqualified for entry-level work. So, if anything, I’ll just take the experience.

My time out here is a great way to experience some more personal growth without being around a lot of the issues that surround 20-somethings at this point in time. Yes, I feel like I am delaying some of my “adult” growth at the moment, but I now know what I want to do at the next step of my time being overseas. But, I pay my own bills and support myself completely.

My next step, however, is to get a more flexible teaching job. Right now my job is easy. Yes, it can be stressful when dealing with middle school kids, but what makes it easy is the down time. I teach roughly half the time I am in the office. This time allows me to write extensive blog posts.

The problem is that I’m locked here eight hours a day, every workday, even if I’m not teaching. I also cannot hold any extra jobs (as per a clause in my contract) tutoring, freelancing, appearing on TV show extras, etc. I’m stuck and it bothers me. Foreign teachers get treated with distrust from the government legislature down to locals on the street, as if it were inherent in our persona.

If I were to stay at a public school job like this for several years, Korea would be this buffer time between the end of college and the stepping stones of adulthood (as defined by the older generation), not a time for personal growth.

“I think for many it’s just an extension of college,” said my friend Steve, who is also a teacher and also sees his fellow teachers using Korea as an excuse to not grow up. “Keep the party going, do the ‘travel’ thing. [That’s] because this definitely is not like the real world back home and we are definitely not acting like adults.”

A few of my middle school students during the yearly Sports Day.

I enjoy living overseas and the life that comes with, but I think I would have to diversify my type of work and find ways to use my time abroad to further my list of (possible) career goals. I think that whatever I plan to do, whether it’s in the field of journalism or geography, I would greatly benefit from having extensive time overseas. It will give me an upper hand.

So, wherever I go next (in or outside of Korea), I would still teach English (I have a TESOL certificate) but also try to find work writing, editing or geography related.

I don’t necessarily have a problem with making my time here as an excuse to delay “adulthood,” but if I continue to spend time overseas, I think that I would benefit more by finding various avenues for myself.

So, while I do find my time in Korea as very fun and interesting, just like anything else, what I do with my time here and how I benefit is solely up to me. What lies 6,000 miles away back in California will always be on my mind, but it’s not going to dictate my life at the moment.

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Incheon Landing Anniversary

Today is the 60th Anniversary of the Battle of Incheon.  It’s also a special day for a few other reasons. One, my grandfather, a US Marine, came to the peninsula to fight with the UN forces for an entire year on this day. Also, my mom and my dad will embark on their journey to the same place for a 10-day visit to Asia.

My grandfather's USMC portrait

If you don’t know much about the landing The Stars and Stripes ran a short piece about the anniversary celebration and re-enactment of the event:

Approximately 100 U.S. Marines will storm the shores of Wolmi Island Wednesday to mark the 60th anniversary of The Inchon Landing – a military operation that changed the course of the Korean War.

The Marines will be joined by their counterparts from South Korea, the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Australia and Canada in the morning re-enactment.

A wreath will also be tossed into the sea as part of the event, and there will be speeches given by dignitaries, including U.S. Forces commander Gen. Walter Sharp.

The Sept. 15, 1950 Inchon Landing, led by U.S. Gen. Douglas MacArthur, and the ensuing battle that lasted two days was a decisive victory for United Nation forces. It ended a string of battle victories for North Korea and split the communist forces that occupied almost all of the Korean peninsula early in the war.

A newspaper in Oklahoma ran also ran an article of personal stories about the landing itself. It’s definitely worth a read. The event is even important enough that a statue of Gen. Douglas MacArthur was erected in Jayu Park, near the site of the invasion.

But back to the main reason for this post.

Since I’ve been in Korea, I joked with people (before my parents decided to come out) that the only person in my family who has been to Korea besides me was my grandfather, when he fought here sixty years ago.

SSgt. Zayas in the North, I'm told

My grandfather, whose name is Tom Zayas, was decorated during his time on the battlefield. He received two Purple Hearts and other commendations. He fought nearly the entire length of the Korean Peninsula from Busan to Incheon to the Chinese border.

If you want to know more about him, there’s a page at the Library of Congress’ Veterans History Project site right here.

While I have never sat down with him to talk specifically about his time on the Peninsula, he has given me a handful of anecdotes and stories that I remember vivdly.

For example, I know that there was a Marine in his company who posthumously received the Medal of Honor. I’ve also heard stories about having to hold off waves of Red Chinese and how bitterly cold his time was here.

And the only time I’ve ever heard him joke about his time here was when I was just about to leave for Singapore in December of 2008. I remember grabbing some food on Christmas, and was asked, “John, how old are you again?”

Without any hesitation I responded, “I’m 21, why?”

He said, “21? By the time I was your age, I had blown away almost 200 guys.”

My face dropped, I thought a second, and laughed at the absurdity of the situation. I knew that he was part of a two-man team for a mounted .30 Caliber Browning Machine Gun, so I guess that story made sense, I guess.

I had never heard him say anything quite like that since I’ve know him.I’ve heard stories about being ticketed for speeding going into a war zone by the MPs and coming across a blood-tainted river. But this was like nothing before.

I asked my mom why he only recently decided to tell me random things about the war, and the best she could say is that it’s because I’m one of the few people who actually care to know what he did.

Korean War Memorial, Seoul

Remnants of the war still exist in Korea today. Obviously, the border is the biggest reminder, as is the fact that the two Koreas are still technically at war. The sinking of the ROKS Cheonan, the rise of the heir-apparent Kim Jong-eun are all here to remind me that this country still passes on each day with the war on its mind.

But the presence of American military, the signs on the subways, and the general graditude bestowed on Americans and UN-allied nations is obvious (at least from a governmental level. A small minority of Koreans blame the UN for preventing reunification during the war).

With more and more veterans passing on each day, I think it’s important for me now, more than ever, to know his story. Because the war (and people like my grandfather) has done so much to shape the country I now live and work in, I can’t help but try to learn as much as possible.

UPDATE: Check out this new Stars and Strips article for some photos and accounts of the landing reenactment on Wolmido this morning. For some larger photos, mosey on over to MSNBC (via “General MacArthur returns”).

Source: Jo Yong-Hak/Reuters

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Friday Night

I had a good, but odd Friday in Incheon a few nights ago. Francesca, a new teacher from New York, brought out her DSLR to the bar and I managed to snatch it from her for about 20 minutes and go crazy.

The photos both she and I took were posted on her Tumblr blog on Saturday. Check ‘em out.

Colleen, Bryan and DenisFrancescaGeneColemanThe Night

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A trip to Shanghai next week

I’m taking a trip to Shanghai between September 22nd and September 26th.

I am actually revisiting Shanghai. This time, it will be with my parents. But first, my parents have to get Incheon/Seoul. My Mom and Dad will be coming to Korea late next week and stay in Seoul for five days. Then after that, the three of us go to China.

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2010 NFL Season Opener

I’ve managed to find a web feed of the Minnesota Vikings – New Orleans Saints season opener online. The next six months of Mondays is going to include a lot of lost sleep.

Given the time difference, Sunday/Monday Night Football will be the only feasible games for me to watch online.  However, all of the 10am/1PM PST games will be on at 3am and 5am, respectively. So, unless I wake up really, early on Mondays, I may have to miss some games. argggh.

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Weird Email

I got an interesting message today out of the blue from an obviously fake email address. The email itself was fairly innocuous, but I couldn’t help to do some in depth web-sleuthing on it:

Hello there,

I thought that you might find this story at Techdirt interesting.
“Indian School In Singapore Sues Parent Because Others Commented On His Blog.”

-File for Asia (xnobodyx@hotmail.com)

After reading it I was a bit confused. Laws in Singapore don’t apply to me, obviously because I don’t live there anymore. And honestly, this article is of little interest to me.

Then, I remembered a few months ago I posted a fairly long comment on a Columbia Journalism Review article about the (lack) of press freedoms in Singapore.  Since my 700 word comment, in which I used my full name, only one person responded to it and thanked me for my views.

I then did a Google search of “John Gamboa”+Singapore and came across a site called Transitioning.org, which describes itself as a support network for unemployed Singaporeans. Transitioning had copied and pasted my comment in its entirety from the CJR (it’s also on my site as well) in late June. My comment is now entitled, “Press freedom: Views of a Foreigner studying journalism in Singapore local university.”

One comment on Transitioning called my journalistic integrity into question because of my proximity to a story I mentioned in the piece. The commenter said he supported the work of Singapore Press Holdings, the government-owned corporation that owns the Straits Times newspaper, but gave no reason why.

I’m even more curious about this whole thing because of defamation charges against Alan Shadrake, an English journalist who criticized the Singaporean justice system’s use of the death penalty in a book called, “Once A Jolly Hangman.” These recent events have put the Singaporean press laws into question by countless international organizations.

It’s likely just the work of an Internet troll, but this is the first time it’s ever happened to me. Someone must have been Googling Singapore press freedoms and came across me in some way, because the article I was sent about web comment defamation was originally published in July.

The best I can understand is that somebody thought I still lived in Singapore, and was trying to warn me of my comments I have made on the web. In America, making comments online is written off, but in Singapore, you can get arrested and questioned.

I’m really unsure as to why I’m writing about this weird Web encounter that I can almost guarantee means nothing, but it was a weird enough anecdote for me to write about. So, yeah.

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Dear Internet,

Thank you for making this for this for me. Especially you, Scott. And thank you to Mongolia for giving me this opportunity.

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